Ernest “Sean Connery” Hemingway
If you don’t know who Ernest Hemingway is, then you sniffed glue through high school, or you are a Siberian emigrant, or you may be a mermaid who gave up your voice to live on dry land, and now you’re just getting familiar with silverware and life’s other mysteries.
Ernest Hemingway is known to have said,”There are two places I love: Africa and Wyoming.” His love for Wyoming gives me a sense of affirmation in my great personal love for our humble state. It makes me think,”See, Hemingway knew what’s up.”
There’s a pretty sweet little honeypot of incredible stories about Hemingway’s close relationship to Wyoming. He wrote some of his most well known works here, and his personal life played out in some of Wyoming’s most time honored bars and hotels. We’ll do a quick run-through of every reliable story I came across in regards to Hemingway’s time in Wyoming, a topic that was suggested by my friend and Horse Trough Time Machine superfan Lee Harden. He didn’t explicitly come out and say he was a superfan. That’s when I knew he was one.
Hemingway updates his operating system.
“Can someone tell me what a goddamn plug-in is?”
In addition to being a literary icon, Hemingway’s personal life was about as interesting as you can get without being the Dos Equis dude. Here are some of his standout attributes and accolades:
- Served in both world wars
- Was present for the D-Day landings on Normandy and for the Liberation of Paris
- Served as a journalist during the Spanish Civil War
- Received the Bronze Star Medal for bravery (U.S.A.) and the Silver Medal of Military Valor (Italy)
- Won a Nobel Prize in Literature and the Pulitzer Prize
- Published 10 novels, 10 short story collections, and 5 non-fiction books (some of these publications were posthumous)
- Married 4 times
- Drank heavily and carried on
- Survived a plane crash in Africa, and survived another plane crash on the following day
- Was under FBI surveillance for a while because of his association with Cuba
- Loved hunting and fishing of all kinds
- He, his brother, and his sister all committed suicide and are believed to have suffered from a genetic form of depression
- Was a badass throughout his entire life, and has a great many larger-than-life stories to his name
Hemingway was an adventurous soul, and he loved the great outdoors. Not the 1988 comedy phenomenon, The Great Outdoors starring John Candy and Dan Aykroyd, but just outdoor living in general. So for him to have fallen in love with Wyoming is not a huge stretch nor a big surprise when you look at his life through that lens. In fact, he told a friend that the best fishing on Earth was at the Clark’s Fork branch of the Yellowstone River. He loved Yellowstone National Park and spent a lot of time there, as well as in the rest of the state, with his closest family and friends. He even married his third wife in Cheyenne, WY. Let’s check out some notable times and places in Hemingway’s Wyoming adventures:
Ernest “Walter Sobchak” Hemingway
The Spear-O-Wigwam
The Spear-O-Wigwam Ranch outside of present day Sheridan, WY was a place that Hemingway loved to go for its peace and solitude. It was founded in 1923 as a dude ranch, and it’s where Hemingway finished his famous novel “A Farewell to Arms” in 1929. The ranch was recently sold to nearby Sheridan College for education and preservation.
Wine of Wyoming
Wine of Wyoming is one of Hemingway’s celebrated, if not sometimes overlooked short stories. It received a lot of praise from literary critics in its heyday, but it has become somewhat forgotten by time. The most likely reason for this is that it’s written partly in French, a language whose presence in America died with the advent of Freedom Fries and Franzia.
The story is a great one though, and it basically illustrates the culture clash between an older French immigrant couple in rural Wyoming, and the less refined locals who view them has snobby. The clash between French and American culture is a dichotomy with deeply historical and political origins. It is still alive and well today, and it can be observed in real time if you’ll refer to my Freedom Fry joke in the previous paragraph.
Cody, WY
On October 16, 1932 Hemingway checked into the Chamberlin Inn in Cody, WY, where he finished and sent off the final manuscript for his book “Death in the Afternoon,” which was published later that year. We know this because the current owners of the Chamberlin Inn, Ev and Susan Diehl, found the actual register that Hemingway signed, cluttered amidst old antiques and ledgers in the inn’s basement. This piece of information was corroborated by a biography that referenced a letter from Hemingway, in which he stated he had sent the manuscript from Cody via US Mail. The Chamberlin Inn still serves travelers through Cody today, and they have preserved the room that Hemingway stayed in, aptly naming it the Hemingway Suite.
Actual registry signed by Hemingway at the Chamberlin Inn in Cody, WY.
That same night, a local man named Carl Lorenzen checked into
Room #1 in a calculated effort to make the history books at all costs.
In the book “Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story” by Carlos Baker, there is another awesome story about Cody, WY in which Hemingway received a deep cut on his chin at the nearby L Bar T Ranch (modern day location of the LGBarT Silly Ranch). After getting this cut on his chin, Hemingway went to the local ranger station and rented a car with which to drive to Cody. Upon his late evening arrival in Cody, Hemingway awakened a former veterinarian named Dr. Trueblood. No shit, that was his name! Since this was prohibition era, alcohol was only legally available by prescription, and the reliable Dr. Trueblood fixed ol’ Ernest right up with a bottle of whiskey and a proper stitch job. After presumably saving some of the blood for breakfast, Dr. Trueblood accompanied Hemingway across the street to a local restaurant where they drank the whiskey with some of the locals and partied well into the night.
Casper, WY
One of the coolest stories I found about Hemingway took place right here in Casper. As I mentioned before, he was married four times, and it was his fourth wife, Mary Welsh, who this story is centered around.
In July of 1946, Mary revealed to Ernest that she was pregnant. So like any caring husband in the 1940’s he immediately planned a vacation trip for her to Sun Valley, Idaho so he could go hunting. They began the trip by arriving in Florida from Cuba, where they picked up Ernest’s sweet ass Lincoln and embarked on the long drive to Idaho. After driving through 8 states, they pulled into Casper, WY and got a room at the Mission Motor Court, which stood then at the corner of Durbin and Railroad streets. They went out for a dinner of steak and fries and a bunch of local beers. Mary wasn’t feeling well when dinner was through, so she turned in early. Ernest stayed out for a few more beers and several games of pool, the cutting edge in prenatal care in those days, before retiring to bed himself.
When he awakened the next morning on August 19th, 1946, Mary was writhing in excruciating pain and clutching her belly. Since Dragon Wall Buffet didn’t exist at that time, Ernest wondered if it might have something to do with her pregnancy, so he called for an ambulance.
When they arrived at Natrona County Memorial Hospital, Mary was fading in and out of consciousness. The doctor concluded that her fallopian tube had burst due to an ectopic pregnancy, and she was bleeding internally. To make matters worse, the surgeon was out fishing that day, and nobody knew when he would be back. The doctor and hospital staff were transfusing blood into Mary’s veins when she began to take a turn for the worse, and then all of her veins began collapsing.
Right about then, the sturgeon-slaying-surgeon got back from his little fishing adventure and began assessing the scene. He concluded that it was too late for Mary and solemnly told Ernest that he needed to say his goodbyes. Unwilling to accept the dire prognosis, Ernest called upon some of his wartime memories of hospital tents and gruesome surgeries, and he grabbed the IV needle and told the doctor to cut open the vein on her arm. Then, with MacGyver-like prowess, he worked the needle back and forth, to and fro until the plasma bag began emptying into Mary’s bloodstream again. They put four more bags of plasma into her before the surgery was through, and several hours later, the fishin’ physician had removed her ruptured fallopian tube and had Mary back in stable condition. It was Ernest though who had saved her life, and I’m sure he reminded her every Valentine’s Day thereafter.
Mary recovered in Natrona County Memorial Hospital until September 3rd, and then they stayed in Casper for another week while she fully gained her strength for the remainder of the “pregnancy/hunting/we’ve come all this way” vacation trip. In the three or so weeks that Mary and Ernest were in Casper, it is rumored that Hemingway visited the Wonder Bar on Center Street numerous times. He once told the bartender that if only there were a One Man Band who played there on Wednesday nights, he may have stayed in Casper for good.
Hemingway pours himself another snifter of Wife-B-Gone
There is another story about Hemingway in Casper, although this one is a bit more tragic. As Ernest was traveling through Wyoming on a plane, the pilot stopped at the Casper airport for routine repairs. In a sudden bout of depression and paranoia, Hemingway attempted to walk into the moving propeller of the plane. Luckily, some nearby men stopped him from doing so, and he was abruptly transported to the Mayo Clinic in Minnesota for treatment.
He would attribute his suicidal tendencies to being ferociously pursued by “the Feds”. This may have been a plausible and forgivable mindset for Hemingway when we later learned that Herbert Hoover did indeed have him on a watch list because of his villa in Cuba and his fraternization with political figures therein.
Hemingway looks on as Fidel Castro declares himself the
winner of every Pinewood Derby Car race in the World.
So as you can see, Ernest Hemingway loved Wyoming, and he seemed to return here time after time to seek her plains and mountains for serenity and inspiration. It’s important for us to remember what an undeniably special human being he was. Heck, if every heavy drinking Wyoming guy with four ex-wives and clinical depression could be like him, The Alibi would be an Oxford think-tank.
As a lifelong Wyomingite, I’m honored to know that Hemingway loved it here so much. Thank you again to Lee Harden for suggesting this topic. If you enjoy reading about the history of Wyoming or the rest of the world’s history in general, or if you have an awesome topic or story you’d like to suggest, please email me at sean@rallycasper.com and join the Horse Trough Time Machine email list. If you join the mailing list, you can choose to be notified every time a new edition comes out, and it helps perpetuate the writing of this blog! Thank you for reading. Your support is very much appreciated!
Sources:
Ernest Hemingway and Wyoming – My Wyoming Adventure
Cody hotel preserves Hemingway’s memory | Wyoming News
A farewell to Ernest Hemingway’s Wyoming cabin? | Jacket …
Ernest Hemingway | | Cody Wyoming | Chamberlin Inn …
Ernest Hemingway Saves Mary’s Life – March and July, 1946